Sunday, February 24, 2008

Water, Water Everywhere

As I sit in my new apartment in Outapi, enjoying a day off after two weeks of solid travel and conducting workshops, the thunder crackles. The tin roof pings with rain, and occasionally lights flicker when a good bolt of lightning threatens our electrical system. This sort of day has become common this year, during a particularly heavy rainy season in Namibia.

This year, since the skies first opened around mid January, hardly a day has gone by without rain. Sometimes it’s just a few drops, others it’s a late afternoon or evening thundershower, and occasionally we have a couple of days of rain without end. Because of the flatness of the landscape, I can see huge thunderclouds slowly advancing on Outapi, the borders of the dark cloud stretching for a few miles either side of the city. When a storm passes by, you can see the flashes and forks of its lightning as is creeps to the east. For a country with an average 300 days of sunshine per year, I don’t think we’ve had more than three days in the past 35.



Because of all the rain, the landscape is completely, utterly transformed. Normally, Namibia is a landscape of earth tones: white rocks, light brown sand, the occasional scraggly, withering tree. But this year, because of the good rains, the palette has changed completely. It's green everywhere. Fields that were just dry sand changed in a week to shallow pools with grass growing in them, and they look almost like rice paddies from southeast Asia.

The oshanas¸ large, shallow depressions in the terrain, have completely filled with water. Although the water is rarely more than waist-deep, the oshanas look like lakes, stretching sometimes a mile or two in length and nearly a mile wide. Getting anywhere can be a challenge. It’s common now to see women with their dresses bunched around their thighs, walking through what looks like a lake. Men will roll up their pant legs or just wear shorts to work. I spoke to one principal who lives in Outapi but works at a school perhaps 7 miles from here. He and his teachers were leaving for work at 6am, because walking there through the oshanas would take over two hours.

The roads in some places have become impassable. The nearest WorldTeach volunteer, Jocelyn, is at a school 10k down a gravel road. The road has washed out in at least four places, when oshanas on either side of the road linked up. Driving to town after work one day, their pickup struck stalled out in one of these sections. The water was so high that the bed of the pickup flooded, and everyone had to get out and push. Now, most of the teachers have just moved into the village because they can’t go back and forth. For a few days, even the main tar road between Outapi and Ruacana flooded!




I’ve also heard about one group of teachers who were walking back from school one afternoon through an oshana. One of them saw something floating on the water. Thinking it might be a dead cow, he wandered over to investigate. Just a moment later he shrieked, and tore off at full speed, running through the water. The others followed him, terrified, until they reached dry land. What they thought was a dead cow turned out to be a live crocodile!

Now, I think that story might be more of a ‘rural legend’ than a true story. However, I’ve asked several colleagues about it, and while none of them could confirm if this story was true or not, they all acknowledged that it could be. They say that when the rains are heavy enough in Angola, just about 15k north of us, then the Kunene river can flood its banks and the crocodiles escape into the oshana system. The oshanas, when full, actually flow like slow rivers. The oshanas link together and eventually flow into the Etosha pan if there is enough rain. This year, from what I’ve heard, there’s enough rain. I’ll be checking it out this weekend, but keeping a careful eye out for crocs!

Tuesday, February 5, 2008

The Sixth-Grade Slut

When I arrived back in Namibia at the beginning of the year, my first job was to help conduct the teacher training for the incoming group of volunteers. There were just under 20 new volunteers, and all but two had no experience whatsoever with teaching. My task was to try to get them ready to teach in just three weeks. We began with basic pedagogy, and ended with the Grade Six Slut.

While at first this would seem to be a ridiculous job, on reflection they received far more teacher training than I ever did. Most teachers in the United States go through a formal teacher-training program, but I began teaching as an “Emergency Certified” teacher in New York City during a severe teacher shortage towards the end of the internet bubble. In those days, anyone with fiscal sensibility jumped on the internet bandwagon, and as a result schools were having a very hard time getting staff. As a result, the certification process back then involved finding a pulse and checking to see if the applicant was breathing. As I qualified on both scores, I was immediately hired.

The training process for emergency certified teachers was just as rigorous as the interview process. My supervisor, the Assistant Principal for English, came to my apartment about a week before I started. She gave me a box of books, some sample end-of-year exams, and a key. “You can teach any of these books you like,” she said. “Get the kids ready for this exam. Oh, and here’s your room key. Good luck!” That was it.

Compared to such a brief orientation, the three weeks of training for World Teach volunteers seems length! It does raise the question of how valuable and necessary teacher training is, however. In what other profession would governments hire unqualified, unlicensed people for professional positions. Can you imagine hiring someone as a doctor just because he took biology in college? What about hiring someone to build a bridge because she liked to build with lego when she was a child? It does say something about the relative worth that our society places on education.

Those concerns aside, we began our teacher training in Windhoek, Namibia’s capital, with a week of classes on classroom management, writing lesson plans, educational theory, and so forth. For me, the training went much, much better than last year. The group of volunteers was very eager and attentive. I was much more confident, having already taught this curruciulum before. But the biggest reason was that I had a year’s worth of teaching in Namibia under my belt, so I could speak with some authority about issues of critical importance in schools here, like whether or not school policy allowed girls to wear hair extensions. The answer varies with each school, but for most the answer is no, because principals believe it will cause conflict between those who are rich enough to afford extensions and those cannot.

After just a week dealing with thorny educational issues like this one, the whole group traveled up to Omungwelume, a small village about 30km down a gravel road from Oshakati, the biggest city in Ovamboland. Last year, two of my closest friends, Dan Bartha and Jennica Planisek, lived there. This year, another married couple, Dan & Kathryn, are there. It’s a really nice village of perhaps 2,000 people. It’s just the right size – you don’t feel isolated, but there’s no feeling it being a city either. As an outsider, people are curious about you but you don’t have to worry much about theft or other hassles.





For the new volunteers, this was their first time in the North, what I would consider the ‘real’ Namibia. Gone were nicely paved streets, replaced instead with dusty and hot dirt roads through the town and the surrounding bush. Gone were chain stores from South Africa with wide ranges comfort foods. Instead, there are a half of a dozen cuca shops and shebeens, and two general dealers that stock basics such as flour, onions, sugar, oil, and canned goods. But in contrast to the image that many people have of Africa, the small village also sports a clinic, a post office, several schools, and a police station. Most people live in simple houses made of concrete bricks, topped with a zinc roof which is defeaning when it rains. Most of the children are healthy and have enough to eat. It’s poor, but it’s not a dysfunctional, crumbling society. It’s working quite well, in fact.

One challenge was to convince the kids in town to come to our ‘School’ for a week, because this was at the tail end of their summer break. We did have several things gong for us, however. First, there really isn’t much to do in Omungwelume, so school with a bunch of iilumbu (white people) seemed pretty interesting. Second, we gave out snacks at the break and promised a certificate at the end of the week. Namibians are mad for certificates, for reasons that I have never been able to figure out. Finally, I help in the marketing department. The first day in town, I had made friends with several kids when I went out for a run. The next day, I loaded them into our field director’s car and we drove all around the village, spreading the word. I would first explain in my halting Oshiwambo, “Okuya osikola nena! Oto li unene.” (Go to school. You are eating a lot). Then my helpers would explain, fluently, that kids should come to the school because there would be snacks and certificates.

For the new volunteers, working with real kids was invaluable, as was having a chance to see what the north was all about. Even though they were just team-teaching two hours a day, many found the work tiring, because managing 20-40 hyper kids is hard! After a week of ‘classes’, we briefly met with the King of Ndonga, one of the Ovambo tribes, and then took a well-deserved rest in Etosha National Park, Namibia’s biggest game reserve. Every visit to one of these places is different. Last year I visited visited three different game parks but never once did I see a lion. But this time, we saw a lion just ten minutes into the park! We also saw an ostrich run in front of our bus for a kilometer or so, loads of kudus, impalas, and springboks, and two adult elephants mourning a dead juvenile elephant.





After the break of Etosha, we had a few more days training in Windhoek, and I tried something new. Although the practice teaching was useful, most kids who came to our ‘school’ were younger than the kids volunteers would be teaching during the school year. Also, they were generally really good kids, and I didn’t feel the volunteers had much exposure to some of the classroom management problems that can happen. The volunteers broke into two groups, one for grades 5-7, and one for grades 8-12. In each group, volunteers had to present a lesson that was specific to their content level, while the other volunteers pretended to be students. For each lesson, I gave one of the volunteers a slip of paper detailing a behavioral problem they should have during the lesson. I tried to choose the most common classroom management problems: students coming late, being talkative, refusing to work in groups, falling asleep in class, and so on. Though I was worried the volunteers would think this exercise a bit stupid, it turned out that everyone was always waiting to see what the ‘problem’ would be each time, and that volunteers really loved playing the ‘bad’ student.

The best ‘problem’ that happened in class was in the grade 5-7 group. That group of volunteers played their roles as learners to the hilt by talking in high, squeaky voices, stealing each other’s pencils (sometimes unprompted), even pretending to pick their noses in class. One time, I pulled aside Kathryn (Dan’s wife) and Weslie, and asked them if they could ‘pretend’ to get into a fight during the next lesson. They agreed, and I awaited the next lesson eagerly.

During that lesson, I had my back turned when suddenly I heard the fifth-grade Kathryn shout at the sixth-grade Weslie, “You SLUT!! How could you? You slept with Dan!?! That’s my husband.” Kathryn lunged across the table at Weslie. Weslie picked up the first thing she saw, a glass full of Sprite, and dumped on Kathryn’s head. Katrina, the poor volunteer who was teaching at the time, was taken completely by surprise but still managed to separate them. When we all finished laughing and Katrina finished shaking, we debriefed how to handle a situation like this one in the classroom. It doesn’t happen often, but still, it’s good to know what to do when it does. Educational theory says that active learning is far more effective than passive learning, and I bet those volunteers will remember just what to do when a sixth-grade slut steals someone else’s boyfriend!

Friday, February 1, 2008

Canisianum Scholarship

Give kids in Namibia a shot at a quality education -- help create the Canisianum Scholarship Endowment.

Canisianum RCHS in Northern Namibia is an excellent school, but unfortunately most families cannot afford the modest fees of US$100 a year. You can give more kids in Namibia access to a quality education by donating to the Canisianum Scholarship Endowment.

Why Canisianum?
Most schools in Namibia are struggling. Some lack resources, and many are staffed by unmotivated, substandard teachers. The passing rate for the grade 10 exams is less than 50%. Canisianum RCHS, where I have worked as a volunteer teacher, is different. The school, which is supported by both the government and the Catholic church, has adequate resources. It has an excellent teaching staff, comprised of motivated Namibians, volunteers, and nuns. As a result, Canisianum 's passing rate on the grade 10 exams was 98%, and the school was ranked 7th nationwide. For students living in the Ombalantu region, Canisianum is their best chance to get a quality education.

What Will Happen to Your Money?
The goal of this campaign is to raise enough money so that an endowment can be created to fund students at Canisianum in perpetuity. You will not be raising this money alone; Canisianum plans to raise funds in Namibia as well. Once the money has been raised, it will be invested through the charity wing of one of Namibia's largest and most reputable banks, Nedbank. A scholarship selection committee will be created at the school which will include the principal, teachers, and members of the community. This committee will select applicants based on financial need and academic merit. Students who are selected will be fully funded at the school from grade 8 through 12, provided their school work remains satisfactory. The fundraising goal set here should be enough to fund five students every year for the forseeable future.

Please think about donating now to help us give girls like those in the picture a quality education. Donate at whatever level is comfortable for you. Think about a $100 donation, which pays for an entire year of school for a poor child. All donations are tax-deductible! Please help us out today!

There are two ways you can donate. The quick & easy way to donate is on the internet. You can check out the fundraising page for this scholarship at http://www.firstgiving.com/canisianumscholarship. Click on the link or copy it to your browser. The only downside to this site is that they take 7.5% of your donation as their fee, which is kind of high.

If you want every cent to help out these kids, you can send a check to WorldTeach, the NGO through whom I am working in Namibia. They will process everything. Just write "Canisianum Scholarship" in the memo line, and mail your check to:
WorldTeach
c/o Center for International Development
Harvard University, Box 122
79 John F. Kennedy Street
Cambridge MA 02138 USA
Attn: Alix

If you have any questions about this scholarship endowment or Canisianum RCHS, please write me at joshua.kaufmann.72@gmail.com. Thanks in advance for taking the time to consider how you can help more kids in Namibia get a quality education.

Josh Kaufmann

3 Months in 3 Paragraphs

Hello readers! Sorry for the long absence from the blogosphere, but work and life have sort of overtaken me during the last three months. I’ll try to catch you up on things in a quick summary. As I get time and/or gumption, I'll backdate a few entries to give the gory details. In fact, I've already done one on the barefoot marathon runners of Namibia.

At the end of October and beginning of November I traveled loads, going out of town three weekends in a row for trips to Walvis Bay (14 hours each way), Otjiwarongo (6 hours each way), and Windhoek (9 hours each way). The first was for the marathon, the second for a World Teach conference, and the final trip was to judge a debate competition. After that, there was just a headlong rush to finish marking exams and to set up a computerized report card system for my school before I flew back to the U.S. at the beginning of December.

Travelling home to New York and Chicago was very strange for me. At first I had a hard time adjusting, especially when I was in New York. Even though I was home for 3½ weeks, there was simply not enough time to catch up with everyone who I wanted to spend time with, and my head still spun a bit from reverse culture shock. I realized how much I missed my friends and my family. Chicago was especially hard—I’ve been away from there for so long that I feel like I’m starting to lose connection my family. I don’t like only seeing them for short visits once or twice a year. On top of all that, I struggled with the question of whether to stay here just until June, or for one more full year.

Coming back to Namibia was no cakewalk, aided by goofups in travel planning by my NGO and then by a cancelled flight from London to Johannesburg. The trip from Chicago to Namibia ended up taking four days, when it can really be done in 24 hours. Back in Namibia, I felt a bit out of sorts but eager to start working with the new group of volunteers. For three weeks the new volunteers had ‘orientation,’ a combination of teacher training, country orientation, and language classes. The training went really well, and only a week ago I got back to Outapi to start to do some projects developing libraries in the Omusati region.