Getting Lost(TM) at Ruacana Falls

This past weekend a holiday celebrating Namibia’s independence in 1991. As a result, the school was closed from Wednesday to Sunday, and I took the opportunity to visit Ruacana Falls with some other volunteers. I invited Nicola, a German volunteer who just arrived at Anamulenge, along for the trip.

Nicola and I left the mission on Wedneday afternoon, and we ‘hiked’ to Ruacana. Although I’ve only been here three months, ‘hiking’ seems totally normal to me and it was a surprise to experience it through Nicola’s eyes. To get a hike when you are between recognized hike points, you just stand on the side of the road and dangle your hand, limp wristed, when cars pass. If someone slows down, you ask if they are going your way and then jump in. Our first hike was just for three or four kilometers into town, and we only did that because it was hot and I was carrying a lot in my backpack. The driver was willing to drive us to the falls but at a ridiculous price, so we got out and found another taxi who would take us the 100km to Ruacana.


The picture above is of our gas station, and the hike point to Ruacana. I took some weeks ago, but it is one of my favorites that I've taken in Namibia so far! Anyhow, back to the story.

In short order, we found a taxi (which merely means a four-door sedan car), and I asked the driver if he was leaving, “Now now,” meaning very soon. He assured me he was, and when I climbed in, I thought there was a chance we actually would leave soon because there were three in the back and two up front. Even so, the car was not yet full enough. The driver cruised town looking for more fares, eventually adding two more, one up front and one in back. This seemed perfectly normal to me, but Nicola kept chuckling, alternating between confused and amused glances, and I realized that even getting from A to B is a little unusual here.

After we were loaded up, the taxi zoomed off, but shortly stopped to drive across a soccer field and deliver one of the passengers at a small cuca shop, which is a cross between a general store and a bar. By the side of the soccer field, I saw one of my students, watching the game, and waved. Then we were off again, Nicola shaking her head again in wonderment. The rest of the ride was uneventful, save for some unpleasant negotiations about price when our driver dropped us off. He thought I gypped him, even though I had clearly stated what I was willing to pay. Even when I upped the amount by $5 each, he wasn’t happy. On the way out of town two days later, he was miffed and wouldn’t give me a lift. I guess I that negotiation didn’t go as well as I thought.


We spent two nights camping at a lovely campsite called Hippo Pools, which is perhaps 1 or 2 km below the waterfalls on the Kunene River. The Kunene divides Namibia from Angola, and a hydroelectric dam just above the falls provides electricity for about half of Namibia. As a result of the dam and the inconsistent rains, the falls are sometimes vigorous and sometimes quite tame. We are still in the rainy season now, so the falls were strong. There are signs at the campsite warning people that if they hear a siren, they should to high ground because the water level may rise rapidly, and I’ve read that the water level in the river will vary with time of day and amount of electricity usage.

Those technical concerns aside, the campsite was great. We had a large, flat, sandy area to set up our tents, a large circular brai pit to cook our sausages, and an easy-to-climb rocky overlook from which we watched the sunset. The views from the ledge were great. In the pictures, you can see a small island in the middle of the river, and the lovely sunset we saw from the top of the ledge. In the distance, beyond the river, is Angola.


We spent the night making a fire and getting to know many of the Peace Corps Volunteers we were camping with. Many of them were from the southern half of the Namibia, so far away that I will likely never see them again, but it was interesting to hear how there experience differed greatly from that of volunteers in the north. They also dealt with poverty, but in the south of the country the Afrikaners hold the lion’s share of the land, causing much resentment among indigenous tribes. As a result, they must frequently deal with racism, both against whites and amongst different tribal groups. In the north, which is much more monocultural, there are few concerns with race.

I also met a crazy couple from England. They had just driven to Namibia from London on a motorbike. That’s right, a motorbike. And not even a big thing like a Honda Goldwing. Nope, these two were basically on a souped-up BMW dirtbike. They told me this was their third overland trip to Africa, but it was the story of their first trip that really grabbed my attention. On that trip, they drove from London to Capetown via the Middle East and eastern Africa, taking nine months for the trip. Then they packed the bike onto a boat bound for Buenos Aires, and drove from the southernmost tip of South America up to Vancouver. Then they packed the bike on another boat bound for Australia, where they worked for awhile because they had run out of money. Then there was one final boat journey to mainland Asia, and they drove home from there. Total trip length: four years!! I have no idea how these people supported themselves for this time, but maybe they are royal scions of some sort. They were interesting, to say the least.


The next day, we hiked about 5k to Ruacana Falls along the paved road. From the overlook, there are about 500 steps to get down to the base of the falls. More than half of these steps were constantly covered in spray from the falls, so by the time we got to the base, we were already soaked. When we got the base, we left our cameras in a small covered area and scrambled for maybe 100 metres over a section of rocks. There, we found a small area where we could go in the water, protected from the current. Rainbows were everywhere, created by the mist from the falls. At one point, I could see a rainbow and both of its ends quite clearly.


There were some buildings at the base of the falls that looked like they were built for a previous, and now inactive, power station. That area looked just like it was from the set of the TV show Lost. We were surrounded by spray and green growth, and in the middle of nature’s bonanza were strange, man-made structures which looked abandoned yet possibly still functional. When a different group of volunteers arrived, we joked about how we were “The Others” and which ones of their group we might take!




Overall, the weekend was a great break from teaching, a refreshing change of scenery from sand to green, and a good chance to make new friends. The Others aren't so bad as you think!